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Chez l'ami Jean

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Address

27 Rue Malar, 75007 Paris, France

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Hours

Tues-Sat         12:00 PM-2:00 PM; 7:00 PM-11:00PM

Sun & Mon     Closed

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Phone

+33 1 47 05 86 89

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Website

http://lamijean.fr/

Chez l'ami Jean has made quite a name for themselves since opening in 2002.  This former rugby pub is featured in many city guides, restaurant reviews and travel shows.  Owner/chef Stéphane Jego's food can be described as inventive, hearty, soulful and rich, all delivered in a bistro style-like setting.  He is seen as a rebel, part of a group of chefs and restauranteurs that reject the Michelin standards and expectations of excessively polished silverware and immaculate table cloths.

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You instantly acknowledge the high level of execution and presentation in all the dishes.  His foie gras is divinely wrapped with perfectly cooked calamari.  The squid's body acts like a wall, as you notice it's tentacles peeking over.  The generous portions of pork chop and cod are appropriately presented on rustic stones as plates.  In terms of size and the amount of food, you definitely get what you pay for.

 

Unfortunately some people may find it redundant that they use the same ingredients and sauces in several of their dishes.  Richness in their style of cooking can be interpreted as an overwhelming abundance of sodium.  In our opinion, the pepperoni on the pork chops and foie gras was unnecessary.  A simple addition of greens or even potatoes in le canard, or duck soup could have balanced out the saltiness.

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There is no question that the star dish is the riz au lait.  The recipe passed down from Jego's grandmother has everything you want in rice pudding: its sweet, creamy and thick.  The dulce de leche gives the dessert that extra hint of sweetness.  The pistachio brittle brings in a crunchy component.  And the addition of creame anglaise provides his signature richness.  Le riz au lait itself is worth the visit!

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Pictured: Foie gras and calamari

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